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Set on the southbound side of Lawrenceville Highway, this South Indian restaurant makes up for a lack of atmosphere with bountiful flavors. Booths and banquet tables line the large, white- and rose-tinted dining room, and a buffet line (only available at lunch) sits to one corner. An attentive--but not overly invasive--waitstaff adds to the experience. Traditional South Indian food is wholly vegetarian, fried yet greaseless. Appetizers lean toward crisp, spongy fritters of lentils and chickpeas